by Gifford and Eileen Eardley
Prior to the advent of surf-bathing it was customary for the citizens of Sydney and the metropolis generally to spend their weekends at one of the many watering places, as they were termed, located around the foreshores of Sydney Harbour and Botany Bay. At Botany, adjacent to the Cooks River entrance, was the famous Sir Joseph Banks Hotel and its adjoining pleasure grounds, which attracted vast crowds of holiday makers to splash and swim in the shallow waters of the northern section of Botany Bay, to picnic in the bush surrounded grounds, to ride on the miniature steam train, to patronise its hotel bars, to inspect its zoo and the elephant, and generally make merry.
All these things were keenly observed by Mr. Thomas Saywell who saw a good financial return was to be had in catering for the entertainment of the populace. To this end he commenced to develop the sand dune country at Lady Robinson’s Beach, adjacent to the eastern extremity of Ocean (later Bay) Street, Rockdale. Here a palatial hotel was built, also large swimming baths with separate palisade enclosures to divide the sexes, evidently to protect the defenceless males from the wiles of the designing females, and a most spacious picnic ground where people could loll under the shade of the native trees. This area was aptly named Shady Nook, and its fame spread far and wide. It quickly became popular, specially so with mothers with young children to watch. There were swings, and somewhat ponderous seesaws, made from a heavy plank suspended in the centre of its length between two upright ex-tramway sleepers, an arrangement which called for the careful balancing of the opposing loads of youngsters, as broken arms and legs were not altogether unknown amongst its patrons.
The Shady Nook enclosure was located at the southern side of Bay Street and its eastern fence line, formed of short stubby lengths of indigenous tea-tree packed tightly between parallel wires, strung between posts, in an endeavour to halt the inroads of wind blown sand, followed the western verge of the present Grand Parade for some little distance. For a portion of its length the southern fence boundary was occupied by a shelter shed, replete with high ungainly seats, more solid than comfortable, and substantial picnic tables of a strength calculated to withstand the assaults of the vandalistic larrikin element which has always existed in our midst. The remaining portion of the southern boundary, together with the western fence line, was enclosed by a rough hewn post and rail fence which prevented livestock from entering the enclosed grounds. At the time it was common practice to permit cattle and horses to roam at will, seeking agistment wherever it could be found.
The western section of Shady Nook was left, to a large extent, in its virgin state as far as the larger trees were concerned. This growth was intermixed with small-leafed coastal Banksia trees, and gnarled, grotesque shaped Saw-leafed Honeysuckles (Banksia Serrata), which were once so common to the sand dune district bordering the western shore of Botany Bay. There were the bright green Geebungs (Persoonia), the Woody-pears (Xylomelum Pyriforme), and a host of other wildlings which have fascinated generations of naturalists.
To cater for the ice-cream, lolly buying, and tea and scone needs of the picnic crowds a small shop was erected at the north-eastern corner of Shady Nook. This was housed in a long weatherboard building, a single room in width, and extended for some distance along the eastern frontage of Shady Nook in a southerly direction from Bay Street, the tea-room and buy shop being located at the northern end and a separate post office, together with the single room which formed living accommodation for Miss Ward, the post mistress, were placed at the southern end. On the western side of this building, running for its full length, was a narrow side verandah sheltering the various doorways and also a series of attractive bay windows which displayed an excellent wealth of ferns and exotic pot plants.
The northern facade of the shop premises, abutting on to Bay Street, was largely devoted to window space, the lower section of the wall being divided into three glazed sections for confectionery display purposes. Immediately above these windows was an intricate panel made up of small panes of coloured glass, reds, greens, and yellows, said to be of German manufacture, This panel looked most attractive at night when illuminated from within by the mellow gleams of the gaslight. The separate lettering of “CADBURY’S CHOCOLATE”, in white glass, now a historic feature of advertising, was affixed in semi-circular fashion, across the three panels of the display window. Beneath the eaves the upper section of the facade was enclosed with redwood shingles painted an ochraceous shade of green, a covering which looked most attractive. The fascia boards were decorated at their ends by semi-circular drops and also midway in their length. The roof was of corrugated iron, painted Indian Red, as a protection against the inroads of sea air and rust. Surmounted above the ridging was a crest board of pierced metal as an ornamentation, the sharp upper edges of which were not appreciated as a potential landing place by the local sea-gull population.
The tea-room was a friendly little place given over to dainty morning and afternoon teas served at small round tables with polished marble tops, around each of which were can-seated “Austrian” chairs. Behind the counter were shelves displaying a wondrous array of chocolate boxes depicting scenes from the Swiss Alps, or flowering gems such as roses, corn-flowers, or red poppies, each box being tied with rich coloured ribbon, the products of old established firms such as Cadburys, Frys, Kailers, MacRobertson, and Nestles, amongst others. For the younger clientele with a penny to spend the stock in trade ranged from gingerbread rabbits to pink and also white sugar pigs, plus a tremendous variety of sticky toffees, milk-poles, licorice telephone wires, also straps, and blocks (at four a penny) of the same black laxative material. There were pink musk sticks, sherbet bags with a licorice tube to suck up the contents, fizzoes (round balls of sherbet encased in white toffee) at half-penny each, and many other tempting comestibles for the juvenile palate.
The post office catered for the then rather limited postal needs of Brighton- le-Sands and had the usual counter, stamp drawers, and delicate brass letter weighing scales. Letters in New South Wales needed one penny stamps, red in colour and issued by the New South Wales Government, and interstate letters were two-pence, a blue stamp. Newspapers, irrespective of their destination were sent at one half-penny each, the stamps of this denomination being green in colour. It may be of interest to give details appertaining to the furnishing of the bedsitting room occupied by the postmistress. The dividing walls of the room were of vertically fixed match-boarding and the ceiling, of the same material, followed the apex shape of the roof timbers. A large table, fully covered with a cloth of elaborate floral design, occupied the central position, whilst a sideboard, with a longitudinal mirror and shelves loaded with vases, ornaments, and trinkets, lay against a wall. There was a natty single bed of iron construction, adorned with spherical brass knobs, one on top of each bed-post, together with a multitude of brass and china fittings. Framed pictures added colour and interest to each wall, and at night a golden glow was shed by an ornate centrally hung gas bracket which, per medium of a pair of oval-shaped brass-sheathed balance weights dangling at the end of chains, could be raised or lowered at will. It was certainly a wonderful cosy little room.
The eastern half of the fence along the Bay Street frontage of Shady Nook was formed with white-painted pickets, a double gate being placed therein to admit vehicular traffic. The main pedestrian entrance was adjacent to the tea-room verandah where a number of vertical posts, each about four feet in height, arranged in two alternatively positioned rows, afforded a maximum of discomfort to obese persons and a wonderment to members of the canine family. Side by side, to admit perambulators and go-carts, was another entrance protected by a revolving cross-bar arrangement, pivoted in a central round post. These protective facilities effectually kept out the roving larger animals, and the revolving cross-bar gave endless pleasure to the smaller children as they were pushed round and round, hanging on for dear life, by their excited mates. The long verandah was paved with brown glazed bricks and the children spent much time gazing at the ferns displayed in the several bay windows and trying to pry through the fronds into the rooms beyond. The grassy sward of the eastern portion of the enclosed grounds was planted, at about twenty foot intervals, with Norfolk Island Pines, each tree being protected by rectangular shaped guards of wooden palings and several guards had seats arranged around their outer sides.
Perhaps the principal feature of Shady Nook was the large ornate Merry-Go- Round, placed near the north-eastern corner of the pleasure ground. This appurtenance was constructed about the beginning of the present century by Messrs. Stewart and Cropp, a local firm of contractors, and was electrically driven per medium of a winch, several idling pulleys, and an endless rope, the latter, after leaving the winch, being coiled around and immediately below the rotating wooden floor of the machine. A circular single railed track, concentric with the main pivot, was traversed by railway type wheels, each revolving on separate radiating axles. A large electrically operated organ played strident “mechanical” music which was clearly audible more than half a mile away, amongst which one vividly remembers the rendition of the “Blue Danube” in particular. The Merry-Go-Round was housed in a many-sided wooden building with a conical roof, above which a small cupola gave a sense of adornment. The entrance doorways were closed with wooden shutters When the machine was not in use to prevent unauthorised intrusion and acts of vandalism. The wooden horses, three abreast, moved up and down on vertical brass covered rods, each dappled steed bore a distinctive name on its neck relative to some well known racehorse of the period. There were at least four wheel-less chariots, equally spaced, which gave a measure of comfort to the younger children who were too frightened to ride the bouncing nags ahead. There was also a razzle-dazzle nearby. This contrivance consisted of a large diameter circular seat, suspended by stout iron rods from a metal cap mounted on top of a high and stout post. By the strenuous efforts of the more able participants, the circular seat rotated around its post in a rising and falling fashion. As this machine was on the free list it was a prime favourite with its many and often shrieking patrons.
About the period of 1908 a couple of discarded de-wheeled tramcar bodies, complete with glazed windows, were placed in Shady Nook west of and in the vicinity of the Merry-Go-Round. These erstwhile vehicles had end doors and side seats facing inwards and were popular with picnic parties. They also provided shelter should a thunder-storm arise. Another arrival about the same period was a “Dummy” (or driving) cable car formerly in use on the then abandoned King Street Cable Tramway in Sydney. This open-sided vehicle, minus its wheels, had seats facing outwards and towards each end, the space between the raised backs of the seats once provided standage for the former tram-car “Grip-man” where he manipulated his control levers. This unit found great favour with boys playing at “Trammies” but did not remain at Shady Nook for very long. Its ultimate fate is not known.
With the expiration in 1914 of the thirty years franchise granted to Thomas Saywell by the original Act of Parliament, a move was made by the Rockdale Municipal Council to acquire Shady Nook as a public park. Two years later the Government was urged to purchase the area for recreation purposes, but to no avail. In 1920 the local Council had the option of taking over the property at a cost of £10,000 but could not arrange the finance, and as late as 1928 agitation for its purchase was still proceeding. However, the developers took over and, after the ruthless destruction of the lovely trees had taken its course, they erected the row of shops which face Bay Street and Grand Parade. Trafalgar Street, The Boulevarde, and Duke Street were eventually constructed to serve the needs of the residential area spread over the southern and western portion of the once so beautiful and popular Shady Nook.
This article was first published in the August 1971 edition of our magazine.
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(Images courtesy of Bayside Library Service Local History Collection)