In 1911 when I went to live with my grandparents in Matthew Street, the lower end of which is now known as Hillcrest Avenue, this particular section of Hurstville was then being opened up as a residential area. It was not until the closing of the 1914-1918 World War that Hurstville Grove began to be closely settled.
On the opposite side of the street to where my grandparents resided was the home of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Webb. It may be mentioned that Mr. Webb held the responsible position of foreman in the paint shop division of the Eveleigh Railway Workshops and that his good wife, before her marriage, was Miss Anna Hall, the eldest daughter of Mr. Hall, the first stationmaster at Hurstville. Because of our friendship with Mrs. Webb I came to know Mrs. Hall and her other two daughters and their families. The second daughter was named Lavinia and she married Mr. Albert Schloeffel, a member of the long established firm of estate agents, still operating in Hurstville as Messrs. Schloeffal and Paul. The other girl, Martha, was wedded to Mr. Horace Hearn. I believe there was a son named Thomas, but I was not acquainted with him.
The house of the Hall family is still standing at the corner of Pearl Street and Gloucester Road, opposite the present Hurstville Community Hospital. In my recollection the latter premises, known formerly as “Goshen”, was the home of the Louden family. Mr. Louden being a boot and shoe manufacturer. The house was eventually utilised as the Goshen Private Hospital and, in due course, became the community Hospital. The original building was a large white-painted weatherboard cottage, surrounded by wide verandahs, and set amidst beautifully kept gardens and shrubbery. Underneath the house was a large cellar which, in the days before household refrigeration became almost universal, was most useful for keeping food-stuffs cool.
It was customary for suburbanites to keep numerous ducks and fowls confined within wired enclosures at the rear of the house, a hole generally being cut in the base of the dividing fence to let the birds forage at will on the adjacent vacant paddock. The Hall family were no exception to this rule and much exchanging of broody hens and ducks, together with settings of eggs, went on amongst the neighbours. The merits or otherwise of the various roosters were also discussed and their exuberant crowing at the break of day was, perhaps, the principal sound to be heard in old-time Hurstville.
The good ladies of the Hall household were great makers of jams, preserves, pickles, etc., made from the fruit and vegetables grown in their back yard garden. It was a great delight in those now far off days to go down to the cellar where Mrs. Hall kept good things to eat. The rows of neatly labelled jars standing in order along the various shelves were, in modern parlance, a finger-licken” attraction, The dimly lit cellar, especially in the hot summer months, was always delightfully cool and well aired.
Of course, living so close to the Webb family my memories of them are the strongest. There were three girls and two boys, who were Mrs. Webb’s step-children (Mr. Webb having been left a widower with a very young family to rear). These children all attended Hurstville Public School. It was quite a distance to walk and there was no form of public transport for local services in those days. Quite often, instead of walking the full length of Hillcrest Avenue, we children would turn off at Belmore Road, now King Georges Road, and proceed across the overhead traffic bridge at Penshurst, this deviation being made to take eggs, and sometimes ducks and fowls, to Mrs. Hall’s place, the birds being placed in a sugar-bag in which a hole was cut at a convenient height to permit the unfortunate bird to have a last look at the surrounding world in general. The long trek to the school was then resumed. After school we would, on occasion, call at Gloucester Road again to carry back similar items to Mrs. Webb.
There were many employees of the Railway Department living close to our home at Hurstville Grove and I well remember the 1917 Railwaymen’s Strike and its often uncontrolled happenings. Mr. Webb remained loyal to the Department, being a “Staff” man by his very position, and it became necessary for him to have a police escort from the nearby railway station to his home, the strikers of the locality walking along the opposite side of the street calling out “Scab”, an opprobrious name totally undeserved in his particular case. The strikers also exhibited their fury by throwing stones on the roof of Mr. Webb’s house at all hours of the day and night. It was an offensive period to say the least, and its rancour lasted for many a long year after the event. Upon his retirement from the Railway Department, Mr. and Mrs. Webb went to live at Tahmoor where the good wife died about 1960, Mr. Webb having predeceased her.
This article was first published in the October 1970 edition of our magazine.
When the old Rockdale Town Hall was being erected in 1888-9, at the corner of Rocky Point Road (now known as Princes Highway) and Bryant Street, there was also being built a little stone church at the top of Bryant Street. The site selected for this church was a rocky one, consequently the stone for the building was mostly quarried on the site. Strange to relate the minister of this new church did most of the work himself. He cut out the stone blocks and then laid them in position. He built well, and afterwards preached within its four walls. When the church was opened for public worship in April 1889, it was known as the United Wesleyan Church, as distinct from the other Wesleyan Churches. After being so conducted for some years the Plymouth Brethren took over the property. They conducted services there for some years, but eventually the building became untenanted, and remained so for some time. However, in 1904, another religious organisation took charge, carried on for some years as the Gospel Hall, until the place again became untenanted.
At about the same time as the Town Hall and the little church were being built the Rockdale Public School was opened on the rocky ramparts of Rockdale at the rear of the church. In those days the school and the church were surrounded by huge gum trees, shrubs, vines, ferns and various kinds of native flowers. Goats by the hundred lived and thrived in the rocky caves surrounding the school and church. As a pupil of the school at that time the writer well remembers how the children loved to ramble among the trees and rocks and flowers – at the same time tormenting the goats, which on more than one occasion became inquisitive and ventured into the porches and class-rooms, purloining hats and children’s lunch packets.
After the little church building had remained there for 38 years, with not a crack in its well-built walls, its days of usefulness as a church came to an end. It was purchased by Constable F. Berger, a native of the district, who was better known as Sergeant Berger, of the Hurstville Police. Sergeant Berger’s parents settled at Kogarah about one hundred years ago, and commenced market gardening pursuits in the vicinity of the present Moorefield Racecourse. Sergeant Berger purchased the church building in 1927, had it demolished, and built his home on the site, which was then surrounded by comfortable homes – not a gum tree or a sign of the primeval bush remaining to remind one of days gone bye (sic). When the building was pulled down a bottle containing newspapers of the day, was found under the foundation stone. One of these newspapers was the local news-sheet of that time – the “St. George’s Advocate,” dated Saturday, April 20, 1889. From this paper, which was in a fairly good state of preservation – the quality of paper being better than that of modern newspapers – the writer gained some interesting information which is incorporated in this story of St. George as it was 130 or more years ago.
The “St. George Advocate” was established in 1888, and was printed and published by Mr. Edward H. Myerson at the Phoenix Printing Works, Railway Parade, Kogarah. It comprised four pages, and was sold at two pence per copy. It was published on Saturdays, shops at that time being open until about 11 o-clock on Saturday night. However, as can be expected at that period, the circulation was not very large on account of the sparse population. In the early nineties the business was purchased by Mr. G.L.A. Davies, and transferred to Rockdale, where the paper was printed in premises opposite the Rockdale Methodist Church in Bay Street, then known as the Masonic Hall. The writer of this article served his apprenticeship in the “Advocate” Office, the commencing wages being 2/6d per week, concluding a five-year term in 1903. The late Mr. Davies was a fearless critic, and many an alderman or public man wilted under his exposure and sarcasm, but in all his writings he never deviated from his opinions if he believed he was right. His whole life had been devoted to journalism, but on account of advancing years he eventually ceased publishing the “Advocate” and sold the plant, but not before the late Mr. James Watson had established the “Citizen” in opposition to the “Advocate”, making two newspapers for the St. George district. Mr. Watson began printing the “Citizen” at Arncliffe, later transferring to premises opposite the Royal Hotel, Rockdale.
In the late eighties the Parliamentary electoral district was known as Canterbury, being represented by four members of Parliament. Of course, there were no Federal members, as the federation of the States of the Commonwealth had not then been accomplished. In 1889 the four members of Parliament for this district were Messrs. J.H. Carruthers, John Wheeler, A. Hutchinson and T.J. Wilshire. Mr. Carruthers, who lived at Kogarah Bay, later became Sir Joseph Carruthers, Premier of New South Wales.
Local Government in the area was controlled by three municipal councils, viz. Rockdale (previously known as West Botany), Kogarah and Hurstville. Bexley at that time was part of Hurstville Municipality, as was also part of Sutherland Shire, the area on the southern bank of George’s River from Como to beyond Lugarno. In later years this area was seceded to Sutherland Shire and Bexley Ward of Hurstville Municipality became the Municipality of Bexley. Each council was comprised of nine aldermen, instead of twelve as at present. In 1889 Rockdale Council comprised Aldermen W.G. Judd (Mayor), S. Geeves, A.C. Carruthers, A.E. Green, H. Cooke, P.J. Smythe, E. Godfrey, T.S. Huntley and T. Price. (Messrs. Judd and Price later represented the district in Parliament). Mr. Thomas Leeder was the council clerk and Messrs. S. Tattler and H. Tuckwell, overseers. In the same year Kogarah Council was composed of Aldermen G. Read (Mayor), P. Hermann, J. South, D.J. Treacy, T.B. Eldridge, P. English, J. Carroll, J. Hatfield, and W. Chappelow. Mr. E.T. Sayers was council clerk and Mr. George Jones the overseer. In 1889 Hurstville Council comprised Aldermen Hugh Patrick (Mayor), Chas. Bull, C.H. Halstead, Myles McRae, John Sproule, C. Fripp, W. Humphrey and Osgood. Mr. G.W.K. Leeder was the council clerk and Mr. W.J. Thompson the engineer. Government roads throughout St. George were under the control of Mr. E. Dyson. Government roads were main roads passing through the various municipalities.
There were only three public parks in the St. George district 130 years ago. They comprised mostly virgin land, and very little improvement was made to them on account of the usual shortage of funds. However, the old pioneers did well to preserve these areas for posterity, and it is a great pity that no more areas were dedicated to the people while land was available for such purposes. These parks were controlled by local trustees, and at the time of which I write they were:- Scarborough Park: Messrs. W.Neil, J. Cooke, J. Bowmer, A. Henry, E.J. Wehlow and A. Black. Cook Park: Messrs. W. Neil, S. Cook, J. Bowmer, W.G. Judd, E.H. Wehlow and J. Henry. Peakhurst Park: Messrs. J.H. Carruthers, A. Milsop, Myles McRae, H. Patrick, Dr. J. MacLeod and J.H. Want. These old pioneers are now in their last resting places, and the parks, considerably improved, are controlled by Rockdale and Hurstville Councils, who, with Kogarah and Bexley, have since added many other parks and playing fields to their areas.
Over 130 years ago seven constables patrolled the area, mostly on horseback. They were Constables M. McCole, Kogarah, who was in charge; G. Alexander, Hurstville; J. Curry, Rockdale; G. Gess, Peakhurst; A. McKenzie, Cook’s River; – Russell, Kogarah, and – Tugwell, Arncliffe. Sergeant McCole afterwards lived in retirement at Kogarah, and was a well known local identity until he died. The Court of Petty Sessions for the district was at Newtown.
Ten Justices of the Peace sufficed for the whole of St. George half a century ago. To-day many hundreds have that honour. In 1889 the local Justices were Messrs. A. Harden, Arncliffe; J. Sproule, Hurstville; J. Bowmer, Rockdale; S.A. Fuilford, Hurstville; E. Hogben, Kogarah; D.J. Lamrock, Kogarah; H. Kinsela, Bexley; Dr. Read, Kogarah; F.J. Gibbins, Arncliffe; and W.G. Judd, Arncliffe. The registrars of births, marriages and deaths were: – Mr. H. Cambridge, Kogarah; Mr. Hardwick, Rockdale; while Mr. George Leeder, of Hurstville, looked after the interests of Hurstville, Bexley, Kingsgrove, Peakhurst and Sutherland.
Old residents will remember that Shea’s Creek and Muddy Creek, tributaries of Cook’s River, were narrow rivulets surrounded by a huge swamp area, overgrown by mangrove trees, swamp oaks etc. The area extended from Skidmore’s bridge, Rockdale to Bay Street, on to Bestic Street, where it widened out to Cook’s River. It was a favourite spot for quail and duck shooting. Part of the area, at Arncliffe, was used for a sewerage farm for some years, until the advent of the sewerage system. The present recreation grounds at North Brighton were also part of the swamp area. Reclaimed land at Shea’s Creek is now covered with factories, etc. Muddy Creek is now a tidal watercourse, near its outlet, and a stormwater concrete channel near its source. All this improvement work has cost many thousands of pounds. In the St. George district today are some of the most modern business premises to be found anywhere, many of them comparing more than favourably with Sydney stores. Their artistic modern window displays and huge stocks have attracted thousands of people to shop locally rather than going to the city to make their purchases. 130 years ago the principal shopping centre for the St. George district was Newtown, but things have changed considerably since then.
However, the district was catered for fairly well in those distant times by local stores, but their stocks were not very large. However, food and household articles could be purchased locally much cheaper then than it is possible today. For instance, bread was delivered at 2d. or 1.75d. per loaf as against about 1/3d. today. The best imported sugar could be purchased at 2.5d. per lb., and tea at 1/- per lb. Mention of a few of the businesses in operation in St. George in the early 1900s may be of interest. Bricks for building purposes were supplied by a number of small brickyards, the bricks being mostly handmade. However, the principal brickmakers were the Hurstville Steam Brick Works at Mort’s Hill, now known as Mortdale, managed by the Messrs. Edwards and Gardner, who were both well-known residents of Hurstville until they passed away some years ago. The principal drapery store in Rockdale over 130 years ago was that controlled by the late Mr. C. Barsby, at the corner of Bay Street and the now Princes Highway. In the nineties he opened another store at Kogarah, his brother Jack, eventually taking over the Rockdale business. Charlie Barsby was a keen advertiser, and many old residents will remember a tree facing the main road between Rockdale and Kogarah on which was attached a sign for many years, reading, “Woodman, spare this tree, for Charlie Barsby.” At any rate, this was the last old gum tree facing the highway to be cut down. His brother Jack, was also a humorist. In those days local store-keepers displayed most of their goods on the footpaths outside their premises, in addition to hanging them on the exterior walls. This served better than window displays, as intending purchasers could sample the goods outside, without going inside the stores. Boots, clothing, dress-material etc., were all hung on the walls outside, and taken down at night. In those days “shop-lifting” and petty thieving was practically unknown – the residents respecting the belongings of others more so than they do today, notwithstanding modern social services, higher education, and more churches. As a youth the writer knew the Barsbys very well, and one incident concerning Jack and his Rockdale store is well remembered. In those days, Rocky Point Road – now Princes Highway – and Bay Street, were very dusty thoroughfares, a modern concrete or tarred road was then unknown. When the winds did blow, the dust nuisance was intense, much to the annoyance of the storekeepers, with their goods hanging on the walls outside. On such occasions Rockdale Council did its best by sending out water carts to spray the streets In order to minimise the dust nuisance in the business centre. One dusty day the water cart failed to arrive. Jack Barsby became annoyed, but would not be beaten. He sent a messenger down to Bay Street for a couple of Chinese market-gardeners to bring up to his shop some watering cans, which they used for watering their gardens. Barsby then set them to work. With poles across their shoulders, and a watering can at each end of the stick they marched up and down in front of his shop watering the street. The dust was eventually turned into mud and the draper was delighted. After that incident Rockdale Council’s staff was more prompt in sending out the watering cart on a windy day.
Very few people know that Rockdale had a steam mineral water works and cordial factory as far back as 1889. It was established by Mr. T.P. Swindale, who was a well-known chemist at Rockdale in those days. Cordials and various drinks were delivered free to any part of the district daily. Messrs. F. and A. Moir were the local timber merchants, but later on came the timber yards of Francis and Wardle, and also that of Mr. S.A. Burns. Mr. T.B. Eldridge conducted a timber yard at Kogarah. One of the oldest general stores at Kogarah was that conducted by South Bros. This business was established in 1866. Not only were they bakers, grocers and drapers, but also dealt in ironmongery and hardware. South’s Bakery at Kogarah, was a household word in the St. George district for much over half a century.
FOOTNOTE: The above article appeared in the Propeller newspaper in 1943 under the heading of “St. George 50 Years Ago“. It was reprinted in the April 1964 edition, adding the change in time as an item of interest for members.
James Oatley arrived in Sydney Town as a convict on January 27, 1815. Before his sentence, he had been a little-known watch and clockmaker living in Stafford, England.
Upon arrival, he was permitted to set up in business in George Street, on a site opposite the present Town Hall. He was soon commissioned by Governor Macquarie to make the turret clock in the prisoners’ barracks, a building now in use as law courts but then being constructed by fellow convict and architect Francis Greenway on the corner of King and Macquarie Streets.
While waiting for land grants offered for this service, he continued his trade and is reputed to have made at least six outstanding grandfather clocks.
In 1831, he settled on 175 acres of land in the Beverly Hills-Kingsgrove district. He subsequently acquired more land in the area,combined farming with his clock business until he died in 1839. He was buried on his farm, his grave being near the present Ponyara Road – Pallamana Pde. intersection.
James Oatley’s grave lay forgotten for many years, and his name stirred few memories.
However, in May, 1921, an anonymous report appeared in the Truth newspaper. It read:
“While out for a stroll yesterday, I came across an old grave, near what appears to have been a farm many years ago. This farm is situated in the country between Penshurst and Lakemba. On the slab of stone covering the grave is the following inscription: ‘Sacred to the memory of James Oatley. Obit. October 8th, 1839. Aetat 70 years. ”
In addition to the headstone (which is now in the Hurstville Historical Museum), and the general name for the suburb, James Oatley is also commemorated in the district by Oatley Bay and Oatley Park.
Hannah Laycock came to New South Wales as a free settler in 1791. She was the 32-year-old wife of Quartermaster Sergeant Thomas Laycock Snr of the New South Wales Corps (veteran of the Battle of Vinegar Hill). However, she was able to make a highly successful career for herself in the new colony.
In 1804, she received a grant of land (500 acres) on the south side of Cook’s River, for which she was to pay a rent of 10 shillings a year. She called the property “King’s Grove Farm” after Governor King, who made the grant. The grant extended from Stoney Creek Road to William Street and from Kingsgrove Road to Bexley Road.
By 1814, Hannah Laycock was supplying 2000 lb of meat to the Government – a business venture which expanded rapidly.
In 1829, she sold the Kings Grove farm. However she did not live long after the sale, and died in Sydney Hospital on May 12, 1831, at the age of 73 years.
She was buried in the old Devonshire Street Cemetery. After the removal of this cemetery to make way for Central Railway, her remains were transferred to Botany in 1901. The headstone could be seen until a few years ago, but cannot be located now.
The suburb of Kingsgrove includes most of what was once Hannah Laycock’s farm. The railway line from Sydney bisects the original grant as it approaches Kingsgrove Station.
The family name survives in the district in Laycock Street, Bexley North, and also in Laycock Road, Penshurst.
Governor Macquarie spoke kindly of Hannah Laycock as “the good old lady”. She has left her mark on the country as a pioneer settler and landholder, owner of a considerable number of cattle, and supplier of fresh meat for the early colonists of New South Wales.
This article was first published in the November 2000 edition of our magazine.