Author: B

by Gifford and Eileen Eardley

Prior to the advent of surf-bathing it was customary for the citizens of Sydney and the metropolis generally to spend their weekends at one of the many watering places, as they were termed, located around the foreshores of Sydney Harbour and Botany Bay. At Botany, adjacent to the Cooks River entrance, was the famous Sir Joseph Banks Hotel and its adjoining pleasure grounds, which attracted vast crowds of holiday makers to splash and swim in the shallow waters of the northern section of Botany Bay, to picnic in the bush surrounded grounds, to ride on the miniature steam train, to patronise its hotel bars, to inspect its zoo and the elephant, and generally make merry.

All these things were keenly observed by Mr. Thomas Saywell who saw a good financial return was to be had in catering for the entertainment of the populace. To this end he commenced to develop the sand dune country at Lady Robinson’s Beach, adjacent to the eastern extremity of Ocean (later Bay) Street, Rockdale. Here a palatial hotel was built, also large swimming baths with separate palisade enclosures to divide the sexes, evidently to protect the defenceless males from the wiles of the designing females, and a most spacious picnic ground where people could loll under the shade of the native trees. This area was aptly named Shady Nook, and its fame spread far and wide. It quickly became popular, specially so with mothers with young children to watch. There were swings, and somewhat ponderous seesaws, made from a heavy plank suspended in the centre of its length between two upright ex-tramway sleepers, an arrangement which called for the careful balancing of the opposing loads of youngsters, as broken arms and legs were not altogether unknown amongst its patrons.

The Shady Nook enclosure was located at the southern side of Bay Street and its eastern fence line, formed of short stubby lengths of indigenous tea-tree packed tightly between parallel wires, strung between posts, in an endeavour to halt the inroads of wind blown sand, followed the western verge of the present Grand Parade for some little distance. For a portion of its length the southern fence boundary was occupied by a shelter shed, replete with high ungainly seats, more solid than comfortable, and substantial picnic tables of a strength calculated to withstand the assaults of the vandalistic larrikin element which has always existed in our midst. The remaining portion of the southern boundary, together with the western fence line, was enclosed by a rough hewn post and rail fence which prevented livestock from entering the enclosed grounds. At the time it was common practice to permit cattle and horses to roam at will, seeking agistment wherever it could be found.

The western section of Shady Nook was left, to a large extent, in its virgin state as far as the larger trees were concerned. This growth was intermixed with small-leafed coastal Banksia trees, and gnarled, grotesque shaped Saw-leafed Honeysuckles (Banksia Serrata), which were once so common to the sand dune district bordering the western shore of Botany Bay. There were the bright green Geebungs (Persoonia), the Woody-pears (Xylomelum Pyriforme), and a host of other wildlings which have fascinated generations of naturalists.

To cater for the ice-cream, lolly buying, and tea and scone needs of the picnic crowds a small shop was erected at the north-eastern corner of Shady Nook. This was housed in a long weatherboard building, a single room in width, and extended for some distance along the eastern frontage of Shady Nook in a southerly direction from Bay Street, the tea-room and buy shop being located at the northern end and a separate post office, together with the single room which formed living accommodation for Miss Ward, the post mistress, were placed at the southern end. On the western side of this building, running for its full length, was a narrow side verandah sheltering the various doorways and also a series of attractive bay windows which displayed an excellent wealth of ferns and exotic pot plants.

The northern facade of the shop premises, abutting on to Bay Street, was largely devoted to window space, the lower section of the wall being divided into three glazed sections for confectionery display purposes. Immediately above these windows was an intricate panel made up of small panes of coloured glass, reds, greens, and yellows, said to be of German manufacture, This panel looked most attractive at night when illuminated from within by the mellow gleams of the gaslight. The separate lettering of “CADBURY’S CHOCOLATE”, in white glass, now a historic feature of advertising, was affixed in semi-circular fashion, across the three panels of the display window. Beneath the eaves the upper section of the facade was enclosed with redwood shingles painted an ochraceous shade of green, a covering which looked most attractive. The fascia boards were decorated at their ends by semi-circular drops and also midway in their length. The roof was of corrugated iron, painted Indian Red, as a protection against the inroads of sea air and rust. Surmounted above the ridging was a crest board of pierced metal as an ornamentation, the sharp upper edges of which were not appreciated as a potential landing place by the local sea-gull population.

The tea-room was a friendly little place given over to dainty morning and afternoon teas served at small round tables with polished marble tops, around each of which were can-seated “Austrian” chairs. Behind the counter were shelves displaying a wondrous array of chocolate boxes depicting scenes from the Swiss Alps, or flowering gems such as roses, corn-flowers, or red poppies, each box being tied with rich coloured ribbon, the products of old established firms such as Cadburys, Frys, Kailers, MacRobertson, and Nestles, amongst others. For the younger clientele with a penny to spend the stock in trade ranged from gingerbread rabbits to pink and also white sugar pigs, plus a tremendous variety of sticky toffees, milk-poles, licorice telephone wires, also straps, and blocks (at four a penny) of the same black laxative material. There were pink musk sticks, sherbet bags with a licorice tube to suck up the contents, fizzoes (round balls of sherbet encased in white toffee) at half-penny each, and many other tempting comestibles for the juvenile palate.

The post office catered for the then rather limited postal needs of Brighton- le-Sands and had the usual counter, stamp drawers, and delicate brass letter weighing scales. Letters in New South Wales needed one penny stamps, red in colour and issued by the New South Wales Government, and interstate letters were two-pence, a blue stamp. Newspapers, irrespective of their destination were sent at one half-penny each, the stamps of this denomination being green in colour. It may be of interest to give details appertaining to the furnishing of the bedsitting room occupied by the postmistress. The dividing walls of the room were of vertically fixed match-boarding and the ceiling, of the same material, followed the apex shape of the roof timbers. A large table, fully covered with a cloth of elaborate floral design, occupied the central position, whilst a sideboard, with a longitudinal mirror and shelves loaded with vases, ornaments, and trinkets, lay against a wall. There was a natty single bed of iron construction, adorned with spherical brass knobs, one on top of each bed-post, together with a multitude of brass and china fittings. Framed pictures added colour and interest to each wall, and at night a golden glow was shed by an ornate centrally hung gas bracket which, per medium of a pair of oval-shaped brass-sheathed balance weights dangling at the end of chains, could be raised or lowered at will. It was certainly a wonderful cosy little room.

The eastern half of the fence along the Bay Street frontage of Shady Nook was formed with white-painted pickets, a double gate being placed therein to admit vehicular traffic. The main pedestrian entrance was adjacent to the tea-room verandah where a number of vertical posts, each about four feet in height, arranged in two alternatively positioned rows, afforded a maximum of discomfort to obese persons and a wonderment to members of the canine family. Side by side, to admit perambulators and go-carts, was another entrance protected by a revolving cross-bar arrangement, pivoted in a central round post. These protective facilities effectually kept out the roving larger animals, and the revolving cross-bar gave endless pleasure to the smaller children as they were pushed round and round, hanging on for dear life, by their excited mates. The long verandah was paved with brown glazed bricks and the children spent much time gazing at the ferns displayed in the several bay windows and trying to pry through the fronds into the rooms beyond. The grassy sward of the eastern portion of the enclosed grounds was planted, at about twenty foot intervals, with Norfolk Island Pines, each tree being protected by rectangular shaped guards of wooden palings and several guards had seats arranged around their outer sides.

Perhaps the principal feature of Shady Nook was the large ornate Merry-Go- Round, placed near the north-eastern corner of the pleasure ground. This appurtenance was constructed about the beginning of the present century by Messrs. Stewart and Cropp, a local firm of contractors, and was electrically driven per medium of a winch, several idling pulleys, and an endless rope, the latter, after leaving the winch, being coiled around and immediately below the rotating wooden floor of the machine. A circular single railed track, concentric with the main pivot, was traversed by railway type wheels, each revolving on separate radiating axles. A large electrically operated organ played strident “mechanical” music which was clearly audible more than half a mile away, amongst which one vividly remembers the rendition of the “Blue Danube” in particular. The Merry-Go-Round was housed in a many-sided wooden building with a conical roof, above which a small cupola gave a sense of adornment. The entrance doorways were closed with wooden shutters When the machine was not in use to prevent unauthorised intrusion and acts of vandalism. The wooden horses, three abreast, moved up and down on vertical brass covered rods, each dappled steed bore a distinctive name on its neck relative to some well known racehorse of the period. There were at least four wheel-less chariots, equally spaced, which gave a measure of comfort to the younger children who were too frightened to ride the bouncing nags ahead. There was also a razzle-dazzle nearby. This contrivance consisted of a large diameter circular seat, suspended by stout iron rods from a metal cap mounted on top of a high and stout post. By the strenuous efforts of the more able participants, the circular seat rotated around its post in a rising and falling fashion. As this machine was on the free list it was a prime favourite with its many and often shrieking patrons.

About the period of 1908 a couple of discarded de-wheeled tramcar bodies, complete with glazed windows, were placed in Shady Nook west of and in the vicinity of the Merry-Go-Round. These erstwhile vehicles had end doors and side seats facing inwards and were popular with picnic parties. They also provided shelter should a thunder-storm arise. Another arrival about the same period was a “Dummy” (or driving) cable car formerly in use on the then abandoned King Street Cable Tramway in Sydney. This open-sided vehicle, minus its wheels, had seats facing outwards and towards each end, the space between the raised backs of the seats once provided standage for the former tram-car “Grip-man” where he manipulated his control levers. This unit found great favour with boys playing at “Trammies” but did not remain at Shady Nook for very long. Its ultimate fate is not known.

With the expiration in 1914 of the thirty years franchise granted to Thomas Saywell by the original Act of Parliament, a move was made by the Rockdale Municipal Council to acquire Shady Nook as a public park. Two years later the Government was urged to purchase the area for recreation purposes, but to no avail. In 1920 the local Council had the option of taking over the property at a cost of £10,000 but could not arrange the finance, and as late as 1928 agitation for its purchase was still proceeding. However, the developers took over and, after the ruthless destruction of the lovely trees had taken its course, they erected the row of shops which face Bay Street and Grand Parade. Trafalgar Street, The Boulevarde, and Duke Street were eventually constructed to serve the needs of the residential area spread over the southern and western portion of the once so beautiful and popular Shady Nook.

This article was first published in the August 1971 edition of our magazine.

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(Images courtesy of Bayside Library Service Local History Collection)

It comes as a shock to discover that there was once a time when otherwise knowledgeable citizens of Sydney had only a hazy notion where Rockdale, Kogarah and Hurstville were. Moreover, Banksia was not then in existence.

The following press report, discovered by Mr. Phillip Geeves, describes our home suburbs in the St George District as they were in 1894, when the now- defunct Australian Joint Stock Bank was Rockdale’s only bank and Chinese market gardens supplied the green symmetry between Rockdale and Lady Robinson’s Beach.

Down at the Beach Saywell’s Hotel had been transformed into the first home of one of our Great Public Schools – the Scots’ College (the Hotel had been delicensed for an infraction of the liquor laws) and the hotel parlour, which had once catered to the gargantuan thirsts of its patrons, was now transformed into a Presbyterian chapel.

In those far-off days,. when a home at Sans Souci was regarded as “a country residence” and Rockdale railway station was noted for its floral display, a journalist wrote this description of St. George’s suburbs, as they then were:-

Illawarra Line

There are many thousands of Sydney people who know little or nothing of this one of the most beautiful and attractive of our suburbs, simply because it does not lead to one of the holiday resorts, for pleasure-seekers. Yet for beauty of scenery we are not aware of any suburb which excels it; and for attractive residential sites, easily accessible, at moderate rates, with frequent trains running punctually from Sydney at 5.10 a.m. to 11.38 p.m., and from Hurstville 5 a.m. to 11.05 p.m., persons travelling on business or pleasure have every accommodation which Sydney residents enjoy. St. George’s electorate commences at Arncliffe, on Cook’s River, five miles from Sydney, and terminates at Hurstville, on the George’s River on the south, bounded on the east by the shores of Botany Bay, and on the west by a continuation of Saltpan Creek, comprising an area of about forty square miles. The towns on the railway line are Arncliffe, Rockdale (with a tramline to Lady Robinson’s Beach), Kogarah (with a tramline to Sans Souci), Carlton and Hurstville.

Arncliffe

At this point we get clear of Sydney proper, with its continuous lines of streets, with their closely-packed houses, with back premises 12 by 12 feet, the hotbeds of disease, and get into the country proper, with its fresh air and breezes from Botany Bay, charged with life-giving ozone.

In this neighbourhood are many attractive residences within the reach of every class of society. There is a considerable elevation above the station, on the highest point of which is the handsome residence of Mr. Barden surrounded by a verandah on the upper floor, with some enchanting views, including Botany Bay and Cook’s River, with its new improvements and reclaimed land, which will become very valuable for manufacturing and other purposes. In addition to the residences there are several large landowners who have sites for sale. Campbell’s Hill, for instance, has a high and commanding position; Dr. Clay Hill, etc. Arncliffe is one of the wards of the Municipality of Rockdale, to which it extends on the west side of Rocky Point Road as far as Harrow Road, where the Kogarah Municipality commences.

Rockdale

Rockdale is the principal business centre of St. George’s, and is divided into three Wards – Arncliffe, Rockdale and Scarborough, constituting the Municipality of Rockdale. It has an area of about eight square miles, and an estimated population of five thousand; has a Town Hall and School of Arts, with a good library. There are several first-class stores and business houses, and in the neighbourhood some very nice residences, with more or less ground up to six acres, well planted with fruit trees. There is a large number of market gardens, producing first-class vegetables, some of these being kept by the irrepressible and indefatigable Chinaman. The immediate neighbourhood is well adapted for fruit and vegetable growing, to which might be added fruit canning; it only requires capital and the right people. There are churches of different denominations, also public schools. A branch of the A.J.S. Bank; two hotels; a College for Boys. A tramway runs, on the arrival of each train, to Lady Robinson’s Beach about a mile, where there are baths for both sexes. This could be made a very attractive pleasure resort on the same plan as Coogee and Bondi, and ought to pay if taken up with spirit.

It is much to be regretted that many of the residents will waste their time and spend their money in going to Sydney to get bargains (!), when they can buy the same goods on the spot at the lowest Sydney rates, and keep the money at home; also, they will subscribe to the Sydney School of Arts, pay a pound per annum subscription and take all the trouble of going to Sydney to exchange their books, while – they can get the selection from a good library on the spot for three shillings a year! Perhaps they want a free library as well as a free paper.

This is a good live town to live in, as there are frequent dramatic and other entertainments, which could be supplemented by lectures, if encouraged. There is a latent spirit of enterprise in the people, but they are shy about supporting a paper run in their interests. There is an excellent hotel, the Royal, for the accommodation of visitors.

Kogarah and Sans Souci

This Municipality is divided into three wards – East, Middle and South. It has an area of about five square miles, and an estimated population of four thousand; has a School of Arts and Public Library. It extends from Harrow Road to Oatley, and has seven churches of different denominations.

On leaving the station at Rockdale, the railway line is on the up grade and although the ground is rather rocky, and not suitable for cultivation, it presents most charming sites for residences, with views at various points of Botany Bay, with a well wooded country intervening, and the charming little suburb of Sans Souci, to which a tramline runs on the arrival of the trains from Sydney.

We recommend our town readers to pay a visit to this locality, particularly if seeking a country residence. The Moorfield Racecourse is an attraction, and there are many horses in training in the neighbourhood. This is one of our holiday attractions.

The Moorfield Hotel has extensive stabling and the landlord as a sporting man will command a good share of support.

Carlton

This is little more than a railway station, but between it and Botany Bay there is one of the greatest attractions in the florists and nurserymen’s grounds, where the flowers which made the great display at the late exhibition of chrysanthemums were principally grown. A visit to this beautiful locality will be a treat for those who take an interest in the subject, and will give them an opportunity of securing some beautiful specimens for their grounds. The Royal Hotel at this place, kept by Mr. Mitchell, is a first-class house which we recommend to visitors.

Hurstville

This Municipality is divided into three wards – Bexley, Hurstville, and Peakhurst. It has an area of about twelve miles square, and an estimated population of three thousand five hundred, being an increase of about seven hundred and fifty over 1890. It has nine churches and four schools, a library and the scenery is very attractive. There are indications of gold in the neighbourhood, resulting so far in little more than the colour. There is some desirable land near worth the attention of investors.

To sum up. It is the general impression that the first step towards getting the several municipalities out of their financial difficulties, will be a Bill for Local Government, to enable the municipalities to collect overdue rates and force the land, now held by the speculators, into the market. In the meantime the necessity for retrenchment is felt very severely by those dependent on local work, and the refusal of government support in the shape of customary subsidies, leaves the municipalities helpless for the present.

We have to thank Mr. George W. Leeder, Council Clerk of Hurstville, and Mr. Sayers, of Kogarah, for their kindness in furnishing information, also the Mayor of Rockdale, Mr. W. Taylor, for his valuable suggestions; and trust the publicity given in this article will be as we wish it of value to the electorate, and a proof of the value of a local paper. The floral display at this station is quite an attraction. Mr. Hall, the station master, deserves a notice for his good taste.

This article was first published in the October 1965 edition of our magazine.

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(Images courtesy of Bayside Library Service Local History Collection)

Greetings fellow St. George Historical Society Inc members,

Without doubt, this past year has proven to be the most logistically challenging yet reinvigorating year in the life of the St. George Historical Society Inc. for many, many years. The historical ‘jewel in Bayside City Council’s crown’ and the home of our society, Lydham Hall has like the proverbial phoenix, risen from the ashes. The exterior is resplendent under a superbly restored slate roof, with all verandah trimmings repainted and the surrounding gardens looking neat, well cared for and becoming for the gracious sandstone house set in their midst. Meanwhile, the interior is while still a work in progress, nonetheless tastefully set-up, being both clean and welcoming. The throngs of visitors, which average 90+ on the monthly Open Days are quite effusive in their praise of the house and its grounds. The proof as they say is in the pudding….Or rather, the Devonshire teas, pumpkin soup and beverages served on the rear verandah with its delightful view over the garden. It is wonderful to see young and the ‘young at heart’ relaxed and partaking in fellowship, food and fun. The Open Days are only possible due to the untiring enthusiasm and unstinting labours of the Society’s volunteers. The charismatic Tina and her willing team of fellow volunteers, whose ‘sleeves rolled-up, get the job done attitude’ keep the doors open and the kettle boiling. I take this opportunity to thank Tina for her dogged determination to persevere notwithstanding a very challenging year with ailing parents, house renovations, property sale and retirement, to name but a few matters. To mention specific volunteers would be imprudent, as I would invariably miss others of equal merit. Suffice to say, thank you to those volunteers who take tours and interact with visitors, prepare and serve food, sell merchandise, take admissions and sales, plus keep the house and grounds in a very presentable state. Many thanks all!

I would like to thank Robert McGarn for his quiet and efficient undertaking of his Public Officer and Vice Presidential tasks, Anne Field for her very determined and proficient efforts to raise the Society’s profile as Publicity Officer and her dedication to the upcoming Christmas in July dinner, which is the Society’s inaugural fund raising event this season. Barry Johnson aside from capturing and recording the lion’s share of funds generated at Lydham Hall, or at meetings and other events, is also working assiduously behind the scenes to maintain the Society’s website and Facebook pages, plus ensure proper accounting records are kept including provision of Annual Financial statements. Laurice Bondfield could well be said to be a ‘trooper’, the last six months in particular have not been kind to her as regards her health. Nevertheless, she has soldiered on and has expertly recorded minutes, drafted correspondence, worked on the Society’s newsletter, coordinated speakers and afternoon teas as well as ‘keeping me on track’, which is no mean feat!

I come back once more to Tina, who has been the mainstay of the Society’s operations at Lydham Hall. Tina has worked tirelessly and painstakingly concerning the complex and intense negotiations had with Bayside City Council. She continues to play a key role in our negotiations with Council. Many thanks Tina, we are indeed indebted to you. Finally, thank you to all members who assist with ideas, logistical support, an encouraging word here and there, plus honour the Society with your presence. I cast my eyes around recent meetings and see members from of old, but increasingly, ‘new blood’, almost all stemming from the Lydham Hall Open Days. I am confident the balance of 2024 will prove to be a most excellent and fulfilling year for the Society and all fellow members. Onwards and upwards!

Madam Secretary kindly provided me with a summary of the last 12 months’ speakers. The monthly meetings have seen nautical themed topics such as the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust, The Shark Arm Case, Anne Field’s ‘Message in a Bottle’ and a History of St George Sailing Club. Other themes explored local areas such as talks on World War 2 in Arncliffe, Growing up in Dolls Point, Zofia Laba’s presentation on local leadlight window artist John Radecki, Janette Pelosi’s Joseph Davis: From Lidham Hill to Lydham Hall and finally the more broad brushed Reluctant Pioneers which provided a fascinating account of life in the early days of the Colony presented by Beverley Earnshaw.

Especial mention must be made of the February Grand Reopening of the Lydham Hall museum. This event was well patronised by Bayside and Georges River Councillors including the Bayside Mayor who fittingly launched the reopening, Local History librarians for Bayside and other councils, office bearers and members of other historical societies, members of other community groups, members and friends. The day was warm (as ‘hot as Hades’ in the 1970s kitchen), but the goodwill and enthusiasm of all present were an excellent counterfoil. This event made-up for all of the days, weeks, months and years of a house in disrepair and a collection in moth balls and desperately in need of some tender loving care.

Whilst we have gained many new members, we also need to acknowledge the sad passing of Mr. Peter Orlovich which was advised by Olga Sedneva. Peter had originally joined the Society in the 1960s and his research and first hand acquaintanceship with early members of the Society, as well as the late authoress Christina Stead as identified by Olga Sedneva, provided others with a wealth of knowledge, which is still being investigated. A well done is also due to our fellow member Jeanette Pelosi who was recognised for her contribution to the annual Ron Rathbone Local History Award competition and also to Olga Sedneva, an independent scholar for her entry too. Well done ladies!

It is necessary to look to the past, but even more important to consider the future. The Christmas in July fund raising dinner which is being held at the Bexley RSL Club is scheduled for next Tuesday night. Anne Field has been the mastermind behind this excellent initiative. We have about 60 confirmed bookings and the evening should be replete with fine fellowship, food, friendliness and fun. Thank you to Laurel Horton for assisting with organising the trivia and local artist, Pamela Griffith, who has most generously donated a painting for which raffle tickets are now on sale. Pamela will speak about the painting at the dinner. Other events are being planned for the Society in the general area and at Lydham Hall, so stay tuned!

With all good wishes,
Wesley Fairhall
President, St. George Historical Society Inc.

During the late 1880s the Sydney Morning Herald published a series of articles on the Municipalities of Sydney. This article was dedicated to West Botany.
The Sydney Morning Herald, Thursday, 5 January, 1888, p4

The borough of West Botany was incorporated on the 13th of January, 1871. It has an area of about six square miles, and is bounded on the north by Cook’s River, on the south by George’s River, on the east by Botany Bay, and on the west by Wolli Creek and Rocky Point-road. A little more than twelve months ago a large additional area was annexed to the original area, and the borough was then divided into the three existing wards, viz., Rockdale Ward, Arncliffe Ward, and Scarborough Ward.

A bill is now before Parliament for the purpose of changing the name of the municipality. Two substitutes are suggested, Scarborough and Rockdale, but on account of certain objections to the former it being, in fact, the name of a post town in another part of the colony it is considered probable that the latter will be adopted.

At the present time there is no system of sewerage in the borough, but a combined movement is on foot to devise a system of drainage to accommodate the whole of West Botany, Kogarah, and Hurstville. The water supply is obtained from tanks and wells but, in consequence of the Nepean scheme being now available, a petition has been prepared for presentation to the Sydney Corporation asking that the mains be extended to the municipality.

According to a census recently taken, the population of West Botany amounts to 3267, which includes 195 Chinese. The sanitary condition of the borough is stated to be good. The aggregate length of the streets is about 50 miles, of which 20 are made and 30 unmade. Kerbing and guttering of footpaths have only just been commenced, but asphalting has not yet been introduced. Some of the streets have been aligned, but those in the new subdivisions have not, neither have they been formed or improved.

It should, however, be remembered that until the opening up of the district by the construction of the Illawarra railway line, the bulk of the inhabitants were market gardeners, poultry breeders, &c., and it is only during a comparatively short period that the land occupied by them has been utilised for building purposes, notably at Rockdale and Kogarah, which are fast becoming thickly populated.

Independently of the numerous contracts for road making now in hand, the council employ on an average about 20 day labourers ; but they have for the second time -taken advantage of the Government subsidy by employing 50 of the “unemployed” class on public works of a permanent character.The council have just entered into a contract with the Australian Gaslight Company for a period of five years for the supply of gas at the rate of £6 per lamp per annum, and 5s. 6d. per thousand cubic feet for gas supplied by meter to private consumers. The mains are now being laid down, and 27 lamps have been ordered as the first instalment.

The localities to be supplied are starting are Rocky Point Road and, Gannon’s Forest – road, Arncliffe street, Illawarra-road, Wollongong-road, Harrow road, Bay street, and West Botany- street; and next Anniversary Day will be celebrated in the borough by the first lighting of the public lamps.Up to the present time a small building at Arncliffe – a freehold property belonging to the council-has been used as the council chamber; but the increasing business of the municipality has long since outgrown the accommodation afforded. The council some time ago secured a more central site on the Rocky Point-road, near the Rockdale railway station, for a new and commodious town hall.

This is now in course of erection, the contract price for the building being £2495. The town hall will contain a large meeting room, with sitting accommodation for 600 persons; a spacious council room, together with suitable rooms for all the municipal officers; a free public library and reading-room ;an apartment for friendly, society meetings, and quarters for the caretaker. It is also intended to arrange a portion of the building to meet the requirements of a post-office.

A large portion of the low-lying lands is still occupied as market gardens, the Chinese paying much higher rents for such land than Europeans. West Botany is amply provided with reserves and water frontages. Cook Park, better known as Lady Robinson’s Beach, skirt Botany Bay, and is about seven miles in length. Its width varies from 100 ft at Webb’s Grant to 15 chains at Doll’s Point, and it is one of the most picturesque beaches in the world.

Scarborough Park, which is about 100 acres in extent, is situated a few chains back from the beach, at the southern portion of the district About 80 acres have been already laid out and planted with between 1100 and 1200 ornamental shrubs and trees. The trustees intend converting the greater part of the swampy portion of the park into a large lake,which will have a depth of at least 8ft. in the driest seasons.

The park is almost entirely surrounded by wide streets-notably, the Boulevard, 3 chains in width; Frederick-street, Lawrence-street, and Walter street, each 2 chains ; Park-street, 72 feet ; and Tonbridge-street, 1 chain. About 30 acres forming the best portion of Scarborough Park was a free gift to the public by the Hon. Thomas Holt, and is, with the rest of the reserve, now dedicated and placed under the control of trustees.

West Botany is easy of access by train from Sydney, there being two stations within its boundaries From Rockdale, a tramway, built by Mr. T. Saywell, runs to Lady Robinson’s Beach, where commodious baths, for both ladies and gentlemen, have also been erected by the same enterprising colonist. A Government tram runs from Kogarah station to Sandringham and Sans Souci. This line is three miles long, and the other one mile, and both have done much towards opening up most delightful health resorts.

The total number of houses in the municipality in April last was 650, and the number of ratepayers on the municipal roll 1128. The total capital value of rateable property is estimated at £754,810, and the total annual assessed value is £17,137. The only rate levied is the general municipal rate of 1s. in the pound,which produced during the year £2350. The total revenue from all sources last year amounted to £2394, and the total expenditure for the same period £3330 (the revenue and expenditure accounts of the annexed area are not included in these items). The Government endowment was at the rate of 5s. in the pound.

Two loans of £3000 and £10,000 respectively have been raised in Sydney, each bearing interest at the rate of 6 per cent per annum. The rapidity of the progress of West Botany may be gathered from the fact that in 1882 the total estimated capital value of rateable property was only £102,315, the estimated annual value £7153, the total annual revenue from all sources £724, and the total expenditure £847, while the total number of ratepayers on the roll was only 199.

But notwithstanding the much smaller revenue previous to 1882, many good works in the shape of roads and bridges were carried out by the pioneer ratepayers, who rendered assistance occasionally by lending their horses and carts, and doing manual labour themselves voluntarily. The following gentlemen were the mayors during the years named;
William Yates 1871;
James Beehag 1872, 1873;
Elias Godfrey 1874;
James Beehag 1875,1876;
James Collins 1877;
John Bowmer 1878 to 1884;
W. G. Judd 1885, 1886, 1887;

Mr. Thomas Leeder is council clerk.

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by Mary Barthelemy*

St Magdalen’s Tempe was an offshoot of the Good Samaritan Sisters’ House of the Good Shepherd in Sydney’s Pitt Street. Destitute women, including former prostitutes, were cared for in this refuge from the Order’s beginnings in the mid-19th century. Laundries were features of these establishments as they had a dual function – to help the women and provide a regular income to support the institution. These ‘fallen women’, ‘penitents’, are the subject of the ABC Radio National program The Missing Magdalens.

The ABC illustrated the first version of the program (19 July 2023) with an image of a young girl in a messy, depressing laundry. Whether the girl worked at this unidentified Irish laundry, whether it was Catholic or Protestant, is unknown.¹ But, it suited the story they wanted to tell.² The program used reports about Irish Magdalen laundries to sensationalise its story about St Magdalen’s. In the revision, published mid-November 2023 (August 2023 ABC website), this has been replaced by a picture of the real St Magdalen’s laundry c1980.

The narrator, Donna Abela, gives a particular slant to the story of the penitents – especially in her search for a voice from one of the ‘hidden’ women. She presents May Gould as such a voice. Gould’s misleading claims about working in the Retreat’s laundry in 1906 were widely disseminated in The Watchman; later repudiated by her former supporters.³ It is a travesty that nearly 120 years later these are presented as a ‘factual account’. One of Gould’s assertions, that three nine-year-old girls were working in the laundry, was highlighted in the broadcast. In her rebuttal, Mother Dominic stated that the youngest there in fact was 14 and a family placement.⁴ Another was that she had worked in a Bathurst presbytery (she had not). The list goes on. (Details are given in Jeff Kildea’s article, ‘”The Missing Magdalens’: the ABC resurrects a ‘hidden story’ discredited more than a century ago”.) The story has been retained and its use defended.

Listening to this program, particularly the story of ‘the penitent’, I realised that I first encountered it in recent research.⁵ This prompted another look at the history of St Magdalen’s. By highlighting the so-called ‘hidden voice’ and restricting the discussion to the institution’s earliest phase – up to the first decades of the 20th century – the one most removed from modern society, the broadcast, even in its current form, continues to do a disservice to many girls and women, including the Religious, who lived there.⁶

St Magdalen’s was a part of my childhood in the 1960s and early 70s. I had a privileged experience. My father was in charge of the grounds. When I was in primary school and into my teenage years I spent some time in the holidays there. I rarely saw the girls but I do remember one, perhaps 16+, quietly sweeping the paths near the chapel on one visit. Not only was I free to explore the grounds at the front but I was permitted to use the swimming pool (I had a hearing condition). I fondly remember ‘Rosie’ calling out, “Hello Mary Angela” followed by an echo from someone else … the many styles and colours of the swimming costumes hanging in the dressing room. I recall the convent as a place of welcome and many of the Sisters, including Sister Process us (Sister Mary Gregory); the kitchen at the rear of the house – the aroma of decades of cooking baked into the plaster.⁷ It was there still in the early 1990s at an open day for Tempe House organised by the local historical society. The scent of the cedar ceiling in the chapel remained though the furnishing was sadly derelict. By that time the large buildings had been demolished following a fire – a few years after the Sisters sold the property to Qantas (1989).

The Order hoped the site could be developed into aged living, like the Good Shepherd Sisters’ Ashfield laundry, but Rockdale Council rejected this. A small group of Vincentians lived there for a few years. Qantas eventually sold it: enormous change followed. The front paddock was used in the construction of the airport railway line. Wolli Creek station was built and the surrounding area developed into what is seen today – high-rise residential buildings. What little remained of the laundry was not considered valuable built heritage, was demolished and replaced by multi-storey apartments. Tempe House was the focus of heritage restoration and also the chapel.⁸ A plaque near the chapel provides a brief outline of the Retreat and the chapel’s architectural heritage. ‘Wolli Creek’ replaced ‘Arncliffe’.

There is another story to tell. In St Magdalen’s 100 years tremendous changes occurred – more subtle than the foregoing but change nonetheless. This article can only be a sketch of such a long and complex record. A knowledge of local history situates this institution in a new context and offers some insights into its place in the local community.

Continue reading in the Journal of the Australian Catholic Historical Society, vol 44, 2023, page 22.

* Mary Barthelemy has an interest in researching and writing about history. She is currently employed as a public servant. This article is based on the author’s recollections, parish history and research as well as recent independent examination.

1. Unidentified Magdalen Laundry in Ireland early 20th century https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magdalene Laundries in Ireland. ↩︎
2. Australian Town and Country produced a story and a two-page spread with photos of the Tempe laundry, dormitory, dining room, chapel, house and grounds in 1899. It also appears to be a source for some of the restoration of Tempe House. There are two laundry interiors either of which could have been used. “St Magdalen’s Retreat, Tempe” Australian Town and Country Journal 10 June 1899 p 31 ff. ↩︎
3. “The Bathurst Presbytery and the Tempe ‘Escapee’: a retraction by Dr Dill Macky” National Advocate 6 August 1906 p 2. Her former supporters were not afraid to class her a liar and in print. ↩︎
4. “A Shameless Slander Exposed” Freeman s Journal 14 July 1906 p 17. ↩︎
5. I intend to update this book: M Smith, M Barthelemy-Reason, A History of Sts Peter & Paul Cook’s River Tempe 1858-2008 Enmore-Tempe Parish, Enmore, 2008. ↩︎
6. For all the program’s emphasis on young unmarried mothers, St Magdalen’s at Tempe/Arncliffe was not this type of refuge. The Sisters of Mercy Foundling Home at Waitara became one. ↩︎
7. The shed housing equipment my father used had a large crack in its base due to having been built over a pool, there was also a large stand of tall bamboo nearby. The pool and bamboo are mentioned in “Our Catholic Institutions. No. XV. Magdalene Retreat.” Catholic Press 20 June 1896 p 16. Neither was preserved in the redevelopment. ↩︎
8. Casey & Lowe Pty Ltd Tempe House and Grounds: Non-Indigenous Archaeological Investigation (2002-6) – Report to Australand May 2010 (laundry remains pp 19-21 ). The lack of a plaque for a non-existent laundry building can hardly be blamed on the Sisters (or the Catholic Church). That was the provenance of the site conservationists and the developers. ↩︎